Ilish For Thought: 'King Of Fish' May Give Durga Puja A Miss

The political crisis and uncertainty in Bangladesh have sparked concerns about the beloved Padma Hilsa potentially missing from Bengali plates this year, especially during the Durga Puja.

Fish lovers in West Bengal have a special affinity for the delectable Padma Hilsa or ilish from the Padma River in Bangladesh. It is renowned for its "superior" taste and is eagerly anticipated by culinary enthusiasts in the state and Bengalis across the country who consider ilish as the "king of fish".

Hilsa, a deep marine fish, migrates to estuaries to spawn in sweet water. Heavy rain during the breeding season enhances the quality of the fish by lowering water salinity, making the ilish even more delectable. It also has a football connection as supporters of East Bengal prefer to eat it on the day of the Kolkata Derby versus Mohun Bagan or after a victory against the archrivals.

The political turmoil threatens to disrupt the cherished tradition of enjoying Padma Hilsa, leaving fish lovers waiting and hoping for a resolution that will allow the fish to grace their tables once more. Uncertainty looms large as the suspension of truck movements at the border has left fish traders on both sides facing losses amounting to several crores of rupees.

The fish enjoys a pride of place in the India-Bangladesh diplomacy, often dominating bilateral talks with a mix of humour and seriousness. The concept of "hilsa diplomacy" was introduced long ago and remains a cherished tradition.

Sheikh Hasina, who has just recently been ousted as the Bangladesh prime minister, had skillfully used hilsa diplomacy to strengthen ties between the two countries, from the time of former West Bengal Chief Minister Jyoti Basu to the incumbent Mamata Banerjee. Since 2012, her government had banned hilsa exports to meet the domestic demand, but diplomatic negotiations have occasionally lifted this ban to allow hilsa exports to West Bengal as a festive gesture.

In recent years, hilsa diplomacy has become a symbol of goodwill between Bangladesh and West Bengal. Sheikh Hasina has frequently sent consignments of hilsa to West Bengal as a gesture of goodwill, reciprocated with equal warmth by Banerjee.

However, this tradition now faces uncertainty due to the current political climate. Hasina resigned and left the country on Monday after fierce clashes in Dhaka left over 100 dead and plunged the country into chaos.

The political turmoil in Bangladesh has led to a ban on truck movements at the border, leaving rows of goods, including fish-laden trucks, stranded and causing losses for traders. Although the situation briefly improved, renewed unrest has once again halted cross-border trade.

NDTV has reported from ground zero that goods worth crores are held up at the India-Bangladesh border due to the political crisis, with traders suffering huge losses, especially those who had already paid in advance for tonnes of hilsa arriving from Bangladesh.

According to a report by Eisamay, Howrah's fish market imports around 800 tonnes of various fish, including pabda, parshe, vetki, tangra and pomfret, from Bangladesh daily, transported in eight to 10 trucks via the Benapole-Petrapole border. In return, about 100 tonnes of boal, rui, katla, vetki, and other fish are exported to Bangladesh in 10 to 12 trucks from India. The business closure is causing an average daily loss of 2 crore rupees.

The current rates for ilish in Kolkata markets are approximately Rs 1,100–1,200 for a fish weighing up to 1 kg, and Rs 1,800–2,000 for a fish weighing over 1 kg. The rates have not changed much due to the fish imports from other parts of India and Myanmar.

The hilsa, which enters from Bangladesh, is often through grey market routes and carries a hefty price of Rs 2,200 to Rs 2,400 per kilogramme, according to an Economic Times report.

Prices of hilsa from Myanmar and Odisha are already up 30% compared to last year, according to Syed Anwar Maqsood, secretary of the Fish Importers Association. While speaking to a leading daily, he explained that traders now are left hoping that a new government might revive the ilish trade in time for the puja celebrations.

In the face of political turmoil and disrupted trade, the fate of Padma hilsa remains uncertain, leaving fish lovers and traders in a state of anxious wait.